Border Crossings

Border Crossings/Crossing Borders

We left San Carlos in a covered panga with about 15-20 other passengers, heading up the Rio Frio from its juncture with Lake Colcibolca toward its headwaters somewhere past Los Chiles, Costa Rica. Our commitment to travel by boat, whenever given the option,was well rewarded. The wild life and fauna were spectacular.  We were in the most monkey-rich territory that we had seen.  Unusual scenarios:  a lone capuchin so close to the water that it seemed to be fishing; a single howler, high up in tree whose upper reaches were not obscured by foliage, hanging by his tail like Curious George, obviously enjoying it.

Upon the easiest border crossing either of us has ever known,we were immediately struck by the vast economic difference between the two countries. Wooden shacks and highly-populated downtowns as opposed to clean streets, cement houses, and more vehicles dominated the external change.  Although it meandered after Los Chiles through several beautiful mountain pueblos, the three day series of busses and transfers down the country left us missing the simplicity of Nicaragua. Admittedly,at the same time, it was awesome to order a salad last night that included more than a bite of lettuce.  After a month of so many patacones and so much gallo pinto, it was a welcome change.

Our journey was aided and improved by the interactions with Ticos and fellow travelers along the way. There are a million simple ways, in the most minute of interactions,to find beauty in this world.  Simple acts of kindness from locals to foreign strangers stood out along the way.  A Nicaraguan working in Costa Rica shared information and pleasantries and monkey spottings with us in the panga.  A rubber stamp salesman who joined us on the bus in Quezada shared his photos of his true passion:  oil and pastels, murals, sculpture.  Then he led the way for several blocks through crowded San Ramon to the bus stop for the Puntarenas bus just before it left the station.

We exchanged the bus in Golfito for a panga on the way to the tiny, pura vida port town of Puerto Jimenez, but only after a pan-fried marlin fillet with a decent salad and a double scoop cone of rum raisin.The Osa Peninsula in the Southern most tip of the country is by far our favorite part. The tranquilo vibe, the calm waters of Golfo Dulce, the wilderness bordering the immense ancient growth jungle of Corcovado National Park are only some of what we love here. We're visiting Davids friend Yanina and her partner Ron. Tomorrow we will all go with some more of their friends by boat into the Golfo Dulce. We are assured we'll see dolphins, giant sea turtles, do some snorkeling, and possibly see whales and whale sharks, besides some monkey viewing at the national park just north of Golfito.  Whatever gifts are offered to us will be appreciated and nothing will be missed as we practice gratitude for what is presented and the absence of greed for what is not.