Thursday, February 19, 2015
Ylang Ylang
To be inundated in every crevice of your olfactory caves with the smell of ylang ylang is totally orgasmic. Inhaling her scent deeply within infuses every molecule of your being with sensual delight. Each day we are here awakens our systems of sensing more fully,to experience the beauty within and surrounding us.
Our evening ritual of "sun gazing"while watching the red glowing orb submerge into the ocean washes our eyes and opens the pineal gland to allow for seeing with a wider lens. The morning bird song accompanied by the enchanting rhythms of the waves opens our ears to the more subtle tones of sound and quiets the mind so that we can hear. On the beach,where we stretch,dance,walk,lie on the sand and swim in the ocean, the stresses that keep us from feeling ebb away like the receding tide.
The pools of water left by the low tide and warmed by the sun beckon to be entered. Yesterday, while relaxing there the taste of pure peace filled my heart. Full body,belly rising,lungs expanding heart opening breathing while lying in the womb of the Great Mother,I was floating in bliss. With eyes closed and facing toward the direction of the sun I saw,felt,tasted,smelled and heard the moment and it was divine.
Now,sipping my coffee,listening to the birds,seeing the ocean from the elevated view our cliff dwelling offers and loving it all I know that now is exactly where I want to be,greeting this new day.
"It is only with the heart that one can see rightly,what is essential is invisible to the eye".
Antoine De Saint-Exuupery
Prisms
Prisms
I love when my timing is perfect unaided by the clock. When my natural course can dictate my arrival and departure I'm un encumbered by the stress artificial rhythms instill on us and rejoice in the absence of rushing. When moving in an unhurried pace I experience an increased sense of connection and of being in the "Tao",
Sophia and I went for a walk today in the rainforest,of which there are three types:cloud,semi dry and humid. Puntarenes,where we are staying at a guest house that sits on the cliffs above where the Golfo Dulce meets the Pacific,is a humid virgin rainforest. We are at the edge of habitation by foreigners.Further on holds only a scattering of indigenous villages inhabited by the Barrucas, We are in a land rich with the nectars of the jungle and the abundance of the sea.
While we were walking I commented to Sophia that I had heard but not seen any frogs yet.A moment later a camouflaged in the color of the surrounding leaves frog showed itself.A short while after that we saw an extraordinary black bodied with an iridescent green outline one too. We saw monkeys,scarlet macaws,toucans,fish and seed pods worth keeping and maybe someday making jewelry from because they're so smooth,heart shaped,chestnut brown and BEAUTIFUL that they should be on display to a bigger audience than the ground surface creatures including the black light dazzling green frog.
Along our walk we came to a most exquisite place,a waterfall. The visual stunning of that clean jungle water cascading down a 40 foot rock wall, carved smooth into intricate designs,was only the beginning of our pleasure. Upon entrance into its radiant water we were shown the jewels inside. A trillion rainbows of light bathed and surrounded our bodies and danced on our skin. We were there at the perfect moment,when the sun shines briefly through a breath of space created between trees and lands exactly on the water to reveal its true nature.
There are an infinite number of opportunities to bathe in the light but WOW was that one fun !
Lying in the hammock listening to the crickets and sea I am happy,content ( there are no bugs)and renewed by my baptism from the holy waters. I may even stay awake past nine but probably not because the early mornings chorus of birds is not to be slept through. I have to stretch my attention wide to simultaneously hear them all.
David comes back a week from today to dance with me at Envision. I have to admit its nice to have the hammock to myself but I'd gladly move over to be with him so that we could share in the RAINBOWS OF LIGHT THAT IS OUR LOVE..
I love when my timing is perfect unaided by the clock. When my natural course can dictate my arrival and departure I'm un encumbered by the stress artificial rhythms instill on us and rejoice in the absence of rushing. When moving in an unhurried pace I experience an increased sense of connection and of being in the "Tao",
Sophia and I went for a walk today in the rainforest,of which there are three types:cloud,semi dry and humid. Puntarenes,where we are staying at a guest house that sits on the cliffs above where the Golfo Dulce meets the Pacific,is a humid virgin rainforest. We are at the edge of habitation by foreigners.Further on holds only a scattering of indigenous villages inhabited by the Barrucas, We are in a land rich with the nectars of the jungle and the abundance of the sea.
While we were walking I commented to Sophia that I had heard but not seen any frogs yet.A moment later a camouflaged in the color of the surrounding leaves frog showed itself.A short while after that we saw an extraordinary black bodied with an iridescent green outline one too. We saw monkeys,scarlet macaws,toucans,fish and seed pods worth keeping and maybe someday making jewelry from because they're so smooth,heart shaped,chestnut brown and BEAUTIFUL that they should be on display to a bigger audience than the ground surface creatures including the black light dazzling green frog.
Along our walk we came to a most exquisite place,a waterfall. The visual stunning of that clean jungle water cascading down a 40 foot rock wall, carved smooth into intricate designs,was only the beginning of our pleasure. Upon entrance into its radiant water we were shown the jewels inside. A trillion rainbows of light bathed and surrounded our bodies and danced on our skin. We were there at the perfect moment,when the sun shines briefly through a breath of space created between trees and lands exactly on the water to reveal its true nature.
There are an infinite number of opportunities to bathe in the light but WOW was that one fun !
Lying in the hammock listening to the crickets and sea I am happy,content ( there are no bugs)and renewed by my baptism from the holy waters. I may even stay awake past nine but probably not because the early mornings chorus of birds is not to be slept through. I have to stretch my attention wide to simultaneously hear them all.
David comes back a week from today to dance with me at Envision. I have to admit its nice to have the hammock to myself but I'd gladly move over to be with him so that we could share in the RAINBOWS OF LIGHT THAT IS OUR LOVE..
Friday, February 13, 2015
Scarlet Macaws
Scarlet Macaws
The Osa Peninsula is by far our favorite part of Costa Rica. Daily and multiple sightings of the gloriously colored scarlet macaw make the heart sing praise to the designer of this living rainbow. We seem, although we aren't completely sure, to have arrived during mating season, so that the pairs of macaws (because they always travel in pairs) were constantly wrestling in the trees and squawking, caterwauling even, at each other, creating such a din that they were always easy to spot.
David, as gracious as always, has returned early to the States. His explanation for his departure was that a month of traveling was enough but my suspicion is that he wanted to support Sophia and I having time for just the two of us to travel together. She'll be leaving for a year toVermont soon after our return home and he knows how much she and I value and need our "mother daughter time". Thank you David. You are a rare gem of a man. My gratitude for your love is as full as the ocean is of water.
Today,she and I along with some friends,both new and known, hiked to a primary rainforest area recently purchased by one of the group members.Giant trees towered overhead in the verdant jungle. They are a magnificent sight that raise the eyes to the heavens and whisper an ancient echo of vibration that astounds those below. To be in their presence touches the core of my being with awe.
We are staying at a retreat center named Guaria de Osa where the jungle meets the ocean and the head meets the heart. We cooked dinner tonight as a gift to the wonderful people we've met here and to give us all a reprieve from the temporary cook that is filling in until the next one arrives who obviously needs to pursue a different profession. Our curry made from fresh turmeric, ginger and coconut harvested from here was a huge hit.
Tomorrow we leave for the Golfo Dulce where the water is calm and clear to go snorkeling. We are blessed in a million ways each moment.
The Osa Peninsula is by far our favorite part of Costa Rica. Daily and multiple sightings of the gloriously colored scarlet macaw make the heart sing praise to the designer of this living rainbow. We seem, although we aren't completely sure, to have arrived during mating season, so that the pairs of macaws (because they always travel in pairs) were constantly wrestling in the trees and squawking, caterwauling even, at each other, creating such a din that they were always easy to spot.
David, as gracious as always, has returned early to the States. His explanation for his departure was that a month of traveling was enough but my suspicion is that he wanted to support Sophia and I having time for just the two of us to travel together. She'll be leaving for a year toVermont soon after our return home and he knows how much she and I value and need our "mother daughter time". Thank you David. You are a rare gem of a man. My gratitude for your love is as full as the ocean is of water.
Today,she and I along with some friends,both new and known, hiked to a primary rainforest area recently purchased by one of the group members.Giant trees towered overhead in the verdant jungle. They are a magnificent sight that raise the eyes to the heavens and whisper an ancient echo of vibration that astounds those below. To be in their presence touches the core of my being with awe.
We are staying at a retreat center named Guaria de Osa where the jungle meets the ocean and the head meets the heart. We cooked dinner tonight as a gift to the wonderful people we've met here and to give us all a reprieve from the temporary cook that is filling in until the next one arrives who obviously needs to pursue a different profession. Our curry made from fresh turmeric, ginger and coconut harvested from here was a huge hit.
Tomorrow we leave for the Golfo Dulce where the water is calm and clear to go snorkeling. We are blessed in a million ways each moment.
Wednesday, February 4, 2015
Border Crossings
Border Crossings/Crossing Borders
We left San Carlos in a covered panga with about 15-20 other passengers, heading up the Rio Frio from its juncture with Lake Colcibolca toward its headwaters somewhere past Los Chiles, Costa Rica. Our commitment to travel by boat, whenever given the option,was well rewarded. The wild life and fauna were spectacular. We were in the most monkey-rich territory that we had seen. Unusual scenarios: a lone capuchin so close to the water that it seemed to be fishing; a single howler, high up in tree whose upper reaches were not obscured by foliage, hanging by his tail like Curious George, obviously enjoying it.
Upon the easiest border crossing either of us has ever known,we were immediately struck by the vast economic difference between the two countries. Wooden shacks and highly-populated downtowns as opposed to clean streets, cement houses, and more vehicles dominated the external change. Although it meandered after Los Chiles through several beautiful mountain pueblos, the three day series of busses and transfers down the country left us missing the simplicity of Nicaragua. Admittedly,at the same time, it was awesome to order a salad last night that included more than a bite of lettuce. After a month of so many patacones and so much gallo pinto, it was a welcome change.
Our journey was aided and improved by the interactions with Ticos and fellow travelers along the way. There are a million simple ways, in the most minute of interactions,to find beauty in this world. Simple acts of kindness from locals to foreign strangers stood out along the way. A Nicaraguan working in Costa Rica shared information and pleasantries and monkey spottings with us in the panga. A rubber stamp salesman who joined us on the bus in Quezada shared his photos of his true passion: oil and pastels, murals, sculpture. Then he led the way for several blocks through crowded San Ramon to the bus stop for the Puntarenas bus just before it left the station.
We exchanged the bus in Golfito for a panga on the way to the tiny, pura vida port town of Puerto Jimenez, but only after a pan-fried marlin fillet with a decent salad and a double scoop cone of rum raisin.The Osa Peninsula in the Southern most tip of the country is by far our favorite part. The tranquilo vibe, the calm waters of Golfo Dulce, the wilderness bordering the immense ancient growth jungle of Corcovado National Park are only some of what we love here. We're visiting Davids friend Yanina and her partner Ron. Tomorrow we will all go with some more of their friends by boat into the Golfo Dulce. We are assured we'll see dolphins, giant sea turtles, do some snorkeling, and possibly see whales and whale sharks, besides some monkey viewing at the national park just north of Golfito. Whatever gifts are offered to us will be appreciated and nothing will be missed as we practice gratitude for what is presented and the absence of greed for what is not.
We left San Carlos in a covered panga with about 15-20 other passengers, heading up the Rio Frio from its juncture with Lake Colcibolca toward its headwaters somewhere past Los Chiles, Costa Rica. Our commitment to travel by boat, whenever given the option,was well rewarded. The wild life and fauna were spectacular. We were in the most monkey-rich territory that we had seen. Unusual scenarios: a lone capuchin so close to the water that it seemed to be fishing; a single howler, high up in tree whose upper reaches were not obscured by foliage, hanging by his tail like Curious George, obviously enjoying it.
Upon the easiest border crossing either of us has ever known,we were immediately struck by the vast economic difference between the two countries. Wooden shacks and highly-populated downtowns as opposed to clean streets, cement houses, and more vehicles dominated the external change. Although it meandered after Los Chiles through several beautiful mountain pueblos, the three day series of busses and transfers down the country left us missing the simplicity of Nicaragua. Admittedly,at the same time, it was awesome to order a salad last night that included more than a bite of lettuce. After a month of so many patacones and so much gallo pinto, it was a welcome change.
Our journey was aided and improved by the interactions with Ticos and fellow travelers along the way. There are a million simple ways, in the most minute of interactions,to find beauty in this world. Simple acts of kindness from locals to foreign strangers stood out along the way. A Nicaraguan working in Costa Rica shared information and pleasantries and monkey spottings with us in the panga. A rubber stamp salesman who joined us on the bus in Quezada shared his photos of his true passion: oil and pastels, murals, sculpture. Then he led the way for several blocks through crowded San Ramon to the bus stop for the Puntarenas bus just before it left the station.
We exchanged the bus in Golfito for a panga on the way to the tiny, pura vida port town of Puerto Jimenez, but only after a pan-fried marlin fillet with a decent salad and a double scoop cone of rum raisin.The Osa Peninsula in the Southern most tip of the country is by far our favorite part. The tranquilo vibe, the calm waters of Golfo Dulce, the wilderness bordering the immense ancient growth jungle of Corcovado National Park are only some of what we love here. We're visiting Davids friend Yanina and her partner Ron. Tomorrow we will all go with some more of their friends by boat into the Golfo Dulce. We are assured we'll see dolphins, giant sea turtles, do some snorkeling, and possibly see whales and whale sharks, besides some monkey viewing at the national park just north of Golfito. Whatever gifts are offered to us will be appreciated and nothing will be missed as we practice gratitude for what is presented and the absence of greed for what is not.
Thursday, January 29, 2015
Contraction
Upon our arrival in San Juan de Nicaragua, we found our chosen hotel easily, and the duena, Dona Marta, gave us her last room, even though it had been reserved by someone else, saying that she would find him a room elsewhere, but that there were no other large rooms available in town. We unpacked, settled in, and after assessing our cash on hand, realized that we needed to find a bank or an ATM right away. No such luck, Marta told us. Nothing like that in this part of the country. David got queasy and anxious. After some quick calculations, he decided that we didn't even have enough for the panga ride back to San Carlos if we had to stay two more nights since there was no Wednesday panga. And that meant not eating at all for the next two days. Sandy, maintaining her indomitably positive outlook and sense of humor, suggested pimping him out to an older Canadian woman we'd met who was traveling alone. David, however, had contracted down into a humorless funk and was diligently searching for a serious solution to the issue at hand.
Sandy remained unconcerned, believing that a solution that didn't involve white slavery or any diminishment of personal integrity would present itself if we remained open and positive. Gradually her ever-smiling nature wore down his funkeated resistance to the point that he began smiling as well. Over a lunch of giant river shrimp which Sandy found to be tastier than lobster, she suggested that David go ask one of the panga colectivo workers if we could ride for free and pay later when we got to San Carlos. Once again holding firm in the face of David's dubiousness, she won the day when the panga guy said, "Sure!"
After lunch we strolled through this, the fourth auto-less town that we had visited in Nicaragua, (along with El Castillo, Sabalos, and Little Corn) enjoying the blend of modern streetlights gracing the wide central promenade with its 19th century glory fading brick by brick. On our stroll, Sandy, basking in previous successes, suggested that we ask Marta if we could send money back for our meals and room after we arrived at San Carlos. Without hesitation, Marta, upon hearing the question, responded that we could, of course, pay later.
So we leave tomorrow on the 5 am panga rapido. Seven hours later we will hit an ATM, pay the panga driver, and have him carry back the remainder to Marta. Breathing in, breathing out. Expanding, contracting. All in a day's flow. Our challenge is to not get stuck in this or that, to not let the eddies of life keep us out of the flow for too long, removing us from the deepwater channel.
Rolling Down the River
Rolling Down the River
Fortunately, Minor had booked us seats two days ago on the Rapido (express panga) to San Juan de Nicaragua because the panga was totally full, not counting kids, who seem to be able to ride in the same seat with their moms up to about the age of 10 or 12. Apparently the moms' life jackets are sufficiently buoyant to keep the kids afloat in case of an accident that puts us in the water because although each other passenger was required to have a jacket, the kids weren't.
The Río San Juan below Bartola is a tale of two sides. On the northern side is the Indio Maiz Reserve of Nicaragua, one of the more pristine rainforests of Central America. On the southern side is Costa Rica, a continual display of clear-cuts, erosion, farming, and heavy machinery. I believe that Nicaragua began complaining about the erosion's effect on the river some years back, and Costa Rica has erected some green cloth erosion control panels in places, but there seem to be fresh, bare hillsides in many places.
Although I have seen several osprey and a treeful of howlers, the superabundant waterfowl of the river directly below Lake Cocibolca has thinned significantly into just the occasional kingfisher or giant egret or cormorant or heron. We are apparently also coming down into caiman and crocodile country, although we have yet to spot one.
The trip down to Boca San Carlos, where we would have spent the third night of the kayak tour had we continued past Castillo, took two hours by express panga, a ratio that would have indicated at the minimum some 12 - 14 hours in a kayak, given that the same panga took 1 1/2 hrs. to get to Castillo from San Carlos (our starting point....which is a completely different location from Boca de San Carlos), and it took us 14 hrs. of paddling to get to Castillo.
Fortunately, Minor had booked us seats two days ago on the Rapido (express panga) to San Juan de Nicaragua because the panga was totally full, not counting kids, who seem to be able to ride in the same seat with their moms up to about the age of 10 or 12. Apparently the moms' life jackets are sufficiently buoyant to keep the kids afloat in case of an accident that puts us in the water because although each other passenger was required to have a jacket, the kids weren't.
The Río San Juan below Bartola is a tale of two sides. On the northern side is the Indio Maiz Reserve of Nicaragua, one of the more pristine rainforests of Central America. On the southern side is Costa Rica, a continual display of clear-cuts, erosion, farming, and heavy machinery. I believe that Nicaragua began complaining about the erosion's effect on the river some years back, and Costa Rica has erected some green cloth erosion control panels in places, but there seem to be fresh, bare hillsides in many places.
Although I have seen several osprey and a treeful of howlers, the superabundant waterfowl of the river directly below Lake Cocibolca has thinned significantly into just the occasional kingfisher or giant egret or cormorant or heron. We are apparently also coming down into caiman and crocodile country, although we have yet to spot one.
The trip down to Boca San Carlos, where we would have spent the third night of the kayak tour had we continued past Castillo, took two hours by express panga, a ratio that would have indicated at the minimum some 12 - 14 hours in a kayak, given that the same panga took 1 1/2 hrs. to get to Castillo from San Carlos (our starting point....which is a completely different location from Boca de San Carlos), and it took us 14 hrs. of paddling to get to Castillo.
The Spaces in Between
How did we get here to this place? This place being this planet, this era, these friends around us because of certain choices made or unmade. Such a huge question that it begs being asked periodically. Otherwise, we begin to take it for granted.
This place also meaning here, physically, in Castillo. How did we get here from Big Corn? It was quite the process, though not nearly the ordeal as getting out to Big Corn from Managua and included a series of the minute details and unexpected surprises that comprise our lives regardless of where we are but are often accentuated while traveling.
After a quick easy flight, we were the first ones out of the airport with luggage, eschewed the first taxi offer of $20, and got one for $6 who took us to the Mayoreo Bus Station where we were led directly onto the bus for a seven hour ride. Getting off in the town of San Carlos, we called Philippe, who sent a panga as soon as one was available, to take us to his "eco-lodge". The lodge seems to focus more on fishing and on his cuisine rather than on other amenities like running water or queen-sized beds or fans, but he rented us two kayaks and a guide, and we took off immediately the next morning.
Going down river we spent our first night at a remote lodge in the hills above the river. We shared our room with the bats that live there. I'm afraid one was given a start when it accidentally brushed up against my arm when I got up to pee in the middle of the night. This lodge had been arranged in advance by ...... an employee at the Esquina del Lago lodge where we hired the kayaks and guide. The river lodge with the bats appeared like a peanut butter Jesus sandwich....Christ's face swirled in the Skippy bringing us so much divine joy after an intensely grueling day of paddling without current into a fierce wind. Franci, the owner, has chosen and set up a beautiful place with individual wooden bungalows set in a row, all with a river view, down the hill from the kitchen and bar so that it was easier to stumble home after a tasty meal. The next morning she served us organic coffee at 5 am from her personal stock, sat and chatted with us about her vision for the next steps in the process of remodeling the place, much as Angeline would have done back home, and refused my handshake in favor of a huge, smiling hug.
Smooth connections, a restful haven, an exuberant, generous woman taking care of us after a hard workout, each comprises a part of the memory of this trip that encourages us to be smiling and generous in return.
This place also meaning here, physically, in Castillo. How did we get here from Big Corn? It was quite the process, though not nearly the ordeal as getting out to Big Corn from Managua and included a series of the minute details and unexpected surprises that comprise our lives regardless of where we are but are often accentuated while traveling.
After a quick easy flight, we were the first ones out of the airport with luggage, eschewed the first taxi offer of $20, and got one for $6 who took us to the Mayoreo Bus Station where we were led directly onto the bus for a seven hour ride. Getting off in the town of San Carlos, we called Philippe, who sent a panga as soon as one was available, to take us to his "eco-lodge". The lodge seems to focus more on fishing and on his cuisine rather than on other amenities like running water or queen-sized beds or fans, but he rented us two kayaks and a guide, and we took off immediately the next morning.
Going down river we spent our first night at a remote lodge in the hills above the river. We shared our room with the bats that live there. I'm afraid one was given a start when it accidentally brushed up against my arm when I got up to pee in the middle of the night. This lodge had been arranged in advance by ...... an employee at the Esquina del Lago lodge where we hired the kayaks and guide. The river lodge with the bats appeared like a peanut butter Jesus sandwich....Christ's face swirled in the Skippy bringing us so much divine joy after an intensely grueling day of paddling without current into a fierce wind. Franci, the owner, has chosen and set up a beautiful place with individual wooden bungalows set in a row, all with a river view, down the hill from the kitchen and bar so that it was easier to stumble home after a tasty meal. The next morning she served us organic coffee at 5 am from her personal stock, sat and chatted with us about her vision for the next steps in the process of remodeling the place, much as Angeline would have done back home, and refused my handshake in favor of a huge, smiling hug.
Smooth connections, a restful haven, an exuberant, generous woman taking care of us after a hard workout, each comprises a part of the memory of this trip that encourages us to be smiling and generous in return.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)